COFFEE
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A BRIEF HISTORY OF COFFEE

The history and development of the beverage that we know as coffee is varied and interesting, involving chance occurrences, political intrigue, and the pursuit of wealth and power.

According to one story, the effect of coffee beans on behavior was noticed by a sheep herder from Caffa Ethopia named Kaldi as he tended his sheep. He noticed that the sheep became hyperactive after eating the red "cherries" from a certain plant when they changed pastures. He tried a few himself, and was soon as overactive as his herd.

Monks hearing about this amazing fruit, dried the berries so that they could be transported to distant monasteries.They reconstituted these berries in water, ate the fruit, and drank the liquid to provide stimulation for a more awakened time for prayer.

Another legend gives us the name for coffee or "mocha." An Arabian was banished to the desert with his followers to die of starvation. In desperation, Omar had his friends boil and eat the fruit from an unknown plant. Not only did the broth save the exiles, but their survival was taken as a religious sign by the residents of the nearest town, Mocha. The plant and its beverage were named Mocha to honor this event.

The coffee plant grew naturally in Ethopia, but once transplanted in Arabia was monopolized by them. One early use for coffee would have little appeal today. The Galla tribe from Ethiopia used coffee, but not as a drink. They would wrap the beans in animal fat as their only source of nutrition while on raiding parties. The Turks were the first country to adopt it as a drink, often adding spices such as clove, cinnamon, cardamom and anise to the brew.

From there, coffee traveled to Turkey where coffee beans were roasted for the first time over open fires. The roasted beans were crushed, and then boiled in water, creating a crude version of the beverage we enjoy today.

Coffee first arrived on the European continent by means of Venetian trade merchants. Once in Europe this new beverage fell under harsh criticism from the Catholic church. Many felt the pope should ban coffee, calling it the drink of the devil. To their surprise, the pope, already a coffee drinker, blessed coffee declaring it a truly Christian beverage.

Coffee houses spread quickly across Europe becoming centers for intellectual exchange. Many great minds of Europe used this beverage, and forum, as a springboard to heightened thought and creativity.

In the 1700's, coffee found its way to the Americas by means of a French infantry captain who nurtured one small plant on its long journey across the Atlantic. This one plant, transplanted to the Caribbean Island of Martinique, became the predecessor of over 19 million trees on the island within 50 years. It was from this humble beginning that the coffee plant found its way to the rest of the tropical regions of South and Central America.

Coffee was declared the national drink of the then colonized United States by the Continental Congress, in protest of the excessive tax on tea levied by the British crown.

Espresso, a recent innovation in the way to prepare coffee, obtained its origin in 1822, with the innovation of the first crude espresso machine in France. The Italians perfected this wonderful machine and were the first to manufacture it. Espresso has become such an integral part of Italian life and culture, that there are presently over 200,000 espresso bars in Italy.

Today, coffee is a giant global industry employing more than 20 million people. This commodity ranks second only to petroleum in terms of dollars traded worldwide. With over 400 billion cups consumed every year, coffee is the world's most popular beverage. If you can imagine, in Brazil alone, over 5 million people are employed in the cultivation and harvesting of over 3 billion coffee plants.

Sales of premium specialty coffees in the United States have reached the multi billion dollar level, and are increasing significantly on an annual basis.

A BOTANICAL OUTLINE

Linnaeus classified the coffee plant in the Rubiacee family, to which belongs also, for example, the gardenia. The name given to it by the great naturalist was "Coffea". There are some sixty species of it growing spontaneously in the subtropical areas of Africa, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Madagascar, that are without any commercial importance.

Only about ten species are cultivated in different parts of the world.

While the wild plant can reach even ten-twelve metres in height, the plantation one reaches a height varying between three and five metres, except in Colombia where it rarely exceeds two metres. This makes the harvest and flowering easier, and cultivation more economical.

The leaves are, depending on the growth stage, deep green, light green and bronze yellow. Flowers are white, in clusters, and sweet-scented like the Spanish jasmine. Flowers soon give way to a red berry, more or less dark, depending on the plant variety.

At first sight, the fruit is like a big cherry both in size and in colour. The berry is coated with a thin film (epicarp or esocarpo) containing a sugary mucilaginous flesh (mesocarp). Inside the pulp there are the seeds in the form of two beans coupled at their flat surface. Beans are in turn coated with a kind of parchment, very resistant, and golden yellow (called endocarp or pergamino).

When peeled, the real bean appears, coated -in its turn- with another very thin silvery film.

The bean is bluish green verging on bronze, depending on the species, and is at the most 11 millimeters long and 8 millimeters wide. For each species there are several varieties, each one distinguished by its own size, colour and resistance to disease.

SPECIES / GROWING

The principal coffee species grown today in the most important producing countries are two: Arabica and Robusta. From their graftings have been obtained several subtypes differently indicated with the names of the producing countries.

Coffea Arabica, a valuable species, has been grown and selected for several centuries, and represents three-quarters of world coffee production. As the name suggests, it comes from Arabia, and thrives in land rich in minerals. Its better-known sub-varieties are the Moka, Maragogipe, San Ramon, Columnaris, and Bourbon. The Arabica coffees produced in Brazil take the collective name of Brazilian Coffees; those from Colombia, Venezuela, Peru, Guatemala, Salvador, Haiti and Santo Domingo are called Milds. There are also Arabica coffees that come from Africa. The Arabica makes a flavoury full-bodied coffee, sharp in taste, with a rather low caffeine content. There are, however, different tastes, due to the different crop varieties. And there are so many varieties on the market that one can assert that some low-quality Arabica species are actually inferior to the best qualities of Coffea Robusta. Arabica beans look slightly elongated, with greenish-blue shades.

Coffea Robusta is a variety that can be over 12 metres high. It grows quickly in altitudes up to 600 metres, and is more resistant to parasites. Discovered in the Congo in 1898, this hardy species is widely spread, especially in Africa, Asia and Indonesia, where the climate is unsuitable for Coffea Arabica. It represents about one quarter of total world production. Because of their higher content of caffeine (about twice as much as Arabica) and strong character, Robustas are used mostly in specialty blends. Overuse and/or improper processing can result in cheap- and bitter-tasting coffee, with pronounced "woodiness", a typical characteristic of natural Robustas from Africa. Washed varieties from Indonesia are rare and particularly prized for use in certain blends. Its beans are typically small, rounded and brownish-yellow in appearance.

Coffee plants need special conditions if they are to thrive and give a satisfactory crop. These are:

  • Favourable climate: areas with hot-wet or hot-temperate climate, between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn, with frequent rains and temperatures varying from 15 to 25 Degrees C;
  • Soil deep, hard, permeable, well-irrigated, with well-drained subsoil. The best lands are the hilly ones, those cut into a mountainside, of volcanic nature with disintegrating rocks or from just-tilled woods. The perfect altitude is between 600 and 1200 metres, though some varieties thrive at 2000-2200 metres, and others at under 400 metres- or even on level land;
  • Careful culture, aimed at protecting the plants at every stage of growth, thus:
    • Selection of the seeds from the healthier, more luxuriant and long-lived plants
    • Sowing, beginning in sheltered and shaded nurseries from which -after about six months- the seedlings so obtained are moved to plantations, with all the earth surrounding the roots, in the rain season.

Depending on the growing areas (tropical or sub-tropical) coffee plants are alternated with other plants to shield them from wind and excessive sunlight. Treated and protected in this way, the plants will start to yield fruit only when three or four years old.

Hand-picking is the most selective method of harvesting (Colombia).

DRYING THE BEAN

Harvesting is made in different months of the year (depending on the geographic position of the producing countries), and it follows subsequent stages in accordance with maturing of the berries. Harvesting time depends on the geographic situation, and the climate and altitude conditions, and it can vary greatly therefore according to the various producing countries.

Ripe fruits can be plucked by hand, or picked with small rakes, or else brought down to earth with poles: the two first systems are used where low-cost labour is available, and they are more selective; the pole system is quicker, but less careful; and it calls for further operations of berry-cleaning. Where the terrain allows it, harvesting can today be effected with special automatic machines.

Only when the plant is five years old can it be counted upon to give a regular yield. This is between 400 grams and two kilos of "arabica" beans for each plant, and 600 grams and two kilos of "robusta" beans: one might say that for 500 grams of beans one will need 2.5 kilos of berries.

Since coffee is a very delicate product, the beans must be extracted within a few days after the harvesting. This is to prevent the pulp and surrounding films from fermenting. Seed extraction can be carried out in two ways:

  • the "DRY" process, producing so-called "Natural" coffees; this is adopted mostly in Brazil and Western Africa. Desiccation takes place via sun exposure on lands reserved for that purpose, and the berries are continuously stirred to expose them evenly to the sun’s rays for a period of 15 to 20 days. Alternatively, after two or three days, coffee can be put in drying rooms, where it is dried by the heat of a burner at 45-60 degrees C.
  • the "WET" process, which is more demanding and difficult (and expensive). From this process are obtained the so-called "Washed" or "Mild" coffees. This method is adopted in Central America, Mexico, Colombia, Kenya and Tanzania. The processing stages are: berry cleaning, maceration, removal of pulp, fermentation, desiccation, and peeling; and final operations designed to remove any residual impurities, and to give glossiness to the beans.

At this point, beans are put into sacks, generally weighing 60 kilos (approx. 132 lbs.), and stored in special sheltered rooms, where they are ready to start their journey -from sack to package- towards the consuming countries.

© 2006, Victor H. Schlosser